Over Christmas I bought these Castelli Nanoflex Legwarmers. For the past few weeks of cold weather, I’ve been testing and am quite pleased with the product.

Warmth

The material is warm and I used over a great tolerance of temperatures down to 4 – 5 degrees. Below that, and you would want something warmer, but that is true for most legwarmers. They feel quite light and stretchy. The inner lining makes them quite comfortable.

Nanoflex Technology

The new feature which made me want to buy them was the Nanoflex technology. This is a technology which claims to be excellent at repelling water. It makes them quite waterproof, but with being fully breathable at the same time. There claims are true, it is not fully waterproof, but it is excellent and repelling a light shower, your legs feel dry despite rain. It’s quite interesting to see the water appear as small droplets on the surface. (as an added bonus, it also seems to repel snot – an inevitability of cold weather riding)

Design

I chose the white colour, which looks good, though I wish the nanoflex logo was smaller or not there. From the picture, I wasn’t sure whether there would be a zip at bottom of legwarmer. But, fortunately, there is. For me this is a feature you really want in a legwarmer. The only drawback of buying white is you have to keep your legs away from the chain

Sizing.

I thought sizing was unusual for legwarmers. The legwarmers size L are very long from your hips to your toes. (I’m 6 foot 3). Put off by length, I went for the medium size. These are still longer than other types of legwarmers size (L). But, the medium were quite tight fighting, especially around the knee. For me, this is not a problem because I’m long and thin (6 foot 3, 10 stone). If you are a short, powerfully built sprinter, I wouldn’t buy these as the sizing is unlikely to be good for you.

Value for Money

You do pay more for the technology. £44 is not cheap for a pair of legwarmers. But, it is good to have a pair which are better at repelling water for rainy days.  I would buy again, though, it might also be worth looking at an alternative such as Sportful No-Rain Legwarmers which promise similar product, but at £33.

 Related

• Castelli Nanoflex legwarmers at Wiggle
• Legwarmer Reviews

Video of Nanoflex

You don't have to suffer in the rain

For quite a few years of cycle commuting I never really used waterproof trousers. I would kind of get wet, curse the weather and take a spare pair of trousers.

My first pair of waterproof cycling trousers were pretty useless and this must have been what put me off (they did only cost £15 from somewhere like Sports Direct – so I guess you get what you pay for). My solution, was to keep a spare pair of trousers at work and change into them when I got deluged.

However, a couple of years ago I got a decent pair of waterproof trousers and they do really transform your commute. I love the feeling of being able to commute whatever the weather.

The only drawback was that I bought a size too small (too short) so they left a gap between the trouser and sock.

Therefore I also bought a pair of garters to keep the gap between shoes and trousers dry. It’s also a good way of keeping your trousers tucked in and away from your chain. The other simple tip is to use plastic bags within your shoes, to keep all your socks dry. If you use this triple combination, you can keep yourself pretty much dry (even if it does take about 15 minutes to get ready…)

The other trick, I was told by the shop, is to wash the waterproof trousers with a special wax – this helps to keep the waterproof quality for longer.

Endura Humvee Trousers – Long Term Review

The Endura Humvee trousers are a lightweight and breathable trouser. I have used some for two years and have been pleased with their performance. For a 30 minute commute, they basically keep your legs dry, even in heavy rain. After a while, you do start to feel a slight dampness on the thighs where the rain slowly seeps through. However, they are really excellent at their breathability; even in warm weather you can wear these without getting hot and sweaty. I’d rather have the 5% seepage through rain,  rather than getting wet from sweat underneath.

If you are a 34″ length go for the XL

Endura Humvee trousers at Evans – £44.99

If you are looking for a top of the range waterproof trousers for more serious water protection, you might consider the Altura X attack  – at £96 I can’t say I will be testing them myself. I find that a cheaper type of waterproof trousers do what I need.

BTW: I never wear waterproof cycling trousers when doing training. Either I don’t go out if its raining hard – or your legs just get wet. But, when you’re training it doesn’t matter. Lycra tights will dry pretty quick. You just need the waterproof trousers when you need to go into town or to the office.

Related

• Cycling in the rain
• Waterproof Trousers at Wiggle
• Waterproof trousers at Evans

The only problem with lycra cycling shorts is that the next inevitable step to maintain your chic elite cycling look is  getting out the old shaver (well, actually preferably new sharp shaver) – to proudly display the contours of your bulging biceps. Anyway, that’s another step and that can wait. But, a good padded cycling short is one of the most essential ways to get a more comfortable ride, especially for anything over two hours.

Over the years I’ve tried quite a few cycling shorts. Recently, I’ve been frequently riding some Impsport custom made ones for my cycling teams like Oxonians and Sri Chinmoy CT. Unfortunately, Impsport do not make the best cycling shorts. Although, att least they are better than they were. A few years ago, I received some shorts with the padding in a pretty useless place. However, they are reasonable and provide enough comfort for most of my rides.

A few general comments about Cycling Shorts

• Bibbed shorts are more comfortable than non-bibbed. It is much easier to keep them up without the feeling of elastic around the waist. They also seem to stay in position much more easily. I do have a few non-bibbed shorts, but, when getting in and out of the saddle, they tend to move. I also have one pair of shorts with a very good insert, but, it’s too tight around the waist. I do still use it (I can’t bring myself to throw it away) but, it’s not good to have a tight elastic around stomach.
• All shorts become more comfortable when used to cycling. Getting used to spending hours in the saddle is like anything else, you develop tolerance over time. If you’re new to cycling, spending £200 on some shorts will still feel pretty sore after a seven hour sportive. If you’re used to spending hours in the saddle, you probably won’t really notice even Impsport varieties.
• Keep Clean. I’m sure this doesn’t really need saying, but, you want to wash after every ride. They are pretty quick drying, especially if you wrap in towel. (Some pros used to insist on hand washing so they could be sure it didn’t get mixed up with other laundry which could potentially pass on germs)
• Don’t Wash at Too High Temperature. On one holiday in US, I took my laundry to a US washomat. After washing at presumably very high temperature, the lycra was stretched to almost indecent proportions. I had to throw away the see-through shorts before getting into trouble. Don’t ruin a good pair of lycra by washing in hot water!
• Some Chamois cream can help keep the insert padding soft. Useful for long rides, though most synthetic chamois are pretty good at staying soft.

Despite using my custom cycling team shorts on most occasions, a seven hour ride in the Dales, made me wanting a really good pair for such epic rides.

Assos FI Mille S5 Bib Cycling Shorts – Review

Assos have a reputation for producing the best, (whatever the cost). These shorts certainly looked intriguing with their dimpled padding. The padding is quite substantial and feels very soft when put on. It does feel different to other shorts because of the air flow and space in between dimples. This helps to wick away sweat which is one of top ways of creating friction and discomfort. The short fits on the body very easily, it smooths away pressure and there is no feeling of tightness or discomfort. Also, I never felt any seems which I often do on other shorts. For long rides, it is substantially more comfortable and does make a real difference. Sometimes, in cycling you can pay £150 extra and it’s hard to know what you’ve got for your money. But, buy a pair of these shorts and you will notice the difference in ride quality.

If you are serious for training for long distance rides and sportives, a couple (or one) pairs of these shorts will make a big difference and could perhaps be a higher priority than some carbon upgrade to save 10 grams.

• Assos F1 Mile at Wiggle £154
• Assos F1 Mile at Evans Cycles

Cheaper Padded Shorts

If you’re a newcomer to cycling, don’t worry that shorts have to be so expensive. I ride close to 10,000 miles a year and so got excited about such a short. But, for the majority of the time, I’ve been fine riding on much cheaper shorts. For example, the dhb Finchdean padded short at under £50.

Under Shorts?

What if you want to ride normal clothes. It may be you want to ride a bike, then get off socialise, walk around the city and even enjoy yourself. If you want to enjoy cycling but, you feel self-consciousness walking around tourist attractions in lycra shorts, you can still get a padded under short you can wear underneath, this will make a comfortable ride. This dhb undershort is only £13. I have a pair of under shorts, but, they hardly get used, except under winter bibtights with an insert.

• Cycling shorts at Evans Cycles
• shorts at Chain Reaction Cycles
• Lycra shorts at Wiggle
• cycle shorts fit
• Cheap cycling shorts
• Tips for a more comfortable ride

Incorrect Fitting of Helmet

from: flickr

In particular the most common problem is to wear the helmet too far back on the head. If you were to land on your forehead the first thing to hit the ground would be your head rather than your helmet. It is important to fit a helmet so that if you did land on your forehead, the first thing to hit the ground is the helmet.

The other mistake is to wear the helmet too loose. It is suggested that badly fitting helmets can actually cause injury when you fall because they can twist your neck. Take time to tighten up the different straps so that it is a snug fit (but not too snug to restrict your breathing.

Tips for Correct fitting of Bike Helmet

photo by Zimpenfish

• Measure circumference of head about 3 cm above eyebrows. Match your headsize to helmet. It doesn’t have to be exact fit as there will be some leeway with straps and padding.
• Place your head squarely on your head so front protrudes above forehead. Then adjust inner padding and inner straps so the helmet is snug. Not loose, but not too tight. It should not be possible to have more than one finger’s width between strap and chin.
• The front strap should be as vertical as possible.
• The buckle should be under the chin on the back of the lower jaw against the throat. It should not be on the jaw.
  If you try to move the helmet, it should only give a slight movement on the head. If it is easy to roll the helmet around the head, it is not tight enough.
• The helmet should sit level on the cyclist’s head with only a couple of finger-widths between eyebrow and the helmet brim.

Other tips for using a helmet.

• If you crash, or have a heavy impact on helmet – get a new one.
• Just because you are wearing a helmet doesn’t make you ‘safe’ on the roads. At the best it will minimise impact of head injuries. The most important safety feature is to ride with awareness and care.

Related

• Cheap cycle helmets - I can recommend the Specalized Align helmet. It is only £30, but has a very nice and simple system for fitting all head sizes. It feels very snug and is quite lightweight.
• Cycle Helmets at Evans
• Giro helmets

As well as looking at cycling specific gloves, you might get a good deal going into a Millets and buying general / ski gloves. These tend to be good for warmth and waterproof, but, the outer fabric tends to get worn down due to shifting of gears and using bike locks.

The real secret to being warm without sweating is to have different layers of gloves. I always wear some base level gloves which are thin, and act as a wicking layer. Wearing these under some ski gloves or Gore Bike Wear windproof gloves will give an extra layer of insulation. Unless you have very cold hands, this extra layer may be unnecessary. But, when it is below freezing – 2 or 3 layers can really help. I find Gore style gloves / Ski gloves can be more prone to sweating. This means your hands can start off warm, but after a long ride, the sweat dries and you start to feel quite cold. An extra pair of underlay gloves definitely helps deal with this layer of sweat. Where possible I tend to avoid wearing very heavy gloves, but will wear two layers of thin gloves, with excellent wicking properties.

When it is warm enough, I also like wearing Merino Wool because it is very comfortable and quite warm without being unbreathable. These SealSkin Merino gloves (at Wiggle £24) are excellent because they have excellent grip for cyling and also are long. (Keeping your wrists warm is important. On short gloves, I often add short armwarmers to protect the wrists.

Tips for Winter Gloves

• Check the temperature when you cycle and note whether gloves are warm enough. I know which layers to wear for every temperature from -1 – 15 degrees.
• Don’t forget on long rides, the temperature can drop in the later afternoon, it may be necessary to add / change layers.
• For Christmas I got many unwanted pairs of socks, but these made excellent improvised arm warmers. I cut off toes and wore them as arm warmers to keep wrists warm.
• If you really get cold hands, you can add these hot pads (I use this when less than 1 degree)
• I have used both general and cycling specific gloves and it is worth getting the cycling specific as they have better grip and resistance to wear and tear.
• If your hands get really cold, be wary of warming them up very quickly as you could get chilblains.

• Winter gloves at Evans Cycles
• Winter gloves at Wiggle

Related

• Winter cycling accessories

blending in with surroundings is not entirely the best strategy for cycling in busy cities, but, it does often seem to be the most popular.

I was stuck in Marston getting an Ipod adapter fitted to my car, so I was taking a few photos. Not too many cyclists about, probably because it was raining fairly persistently. A straw poll of the cyclists who did pass, showed a surprisingly high % of cyclist wearing dark clothes. Perhaps in summer you don’t expect it to get grey or dark weather. You could argue, motorists shouldn’t need bright clothes for them to see cyclists e.t.c. But, it seems wearing bright colours can only help increase visibility and reduce chance of being knocked over. It would certainly be interesting to see a careful study to see if hi viz jackets really do make a difference.

A waterproof, hi viz cover for backpack makes a big difference.

Nice cycle path. Very busy when school is in session.

Paths closed to cars and you see many children on bikes.

Related

• Cycling rain gear
  Cycling in Rain
  Best waterproof jackets

I’m always tempted by light, easy to pack, ‘waterproof jackets’. But, you tend to get what you pay for. In reality all waterproof jackets offer degrees of waterproofing and degrees of breathability. It is a matter of finding the best combination for your type of riding. I also find it is necessary to have more than one for the different purpose of riding.

Heavy Goretex, Waterproof jackets. These jackets are pretty good on being waterproof. But, I find them pretty poor on the breathability side. It is also quite heavy and bulky. I tend never to use this when training. However, when commuting slowly 2-3 miles into town it is fine. On the commute, I’m not looking to work up a sweat, but you want to be as waterproof as possible.
In reality, it can start to feel damp around the edges of sleeves. But, your main body is kept waterproof.

If I was cycle touring and stuck to  a schedule or riding 5 hours through a Lake District rainy day. I would also be wanting this kind of jacket.

Good for Cycle Touring – too heavy and lacking in breathability for training and racing.

dhb Amberley Waterproof.

This is perhaps the most versatile rain jacket and pretty good value. It is light and small enough to fit in a back pocket (I also keep it in a cut off bottle cage). Yet, it offers pretty good wateproofing for 1-2 hours which is about as much as you want to do when its raining hard. When training, I tend not to ride for more than an hour in heavy rain; it does tends to be getting wet after this time frame. But, keeps the worst of the cold out. Panels in the arm help breath.If it is really heavy, I may use in combination with a cycle gilet which I nearly always carry as well.

• dhb Amberley £54.99 at Evans

Cycle Gilet. This is very useful for the days, with frequent small showers (on a recent ride in the misty hills of the Yorkshire dales, it was ideal for the top of the climbs where it always seems to be wet.). The cycle gilet is just very easy to put on and take off whilst on the move.  I have a custom made one (Sri Chinmoy Cycling Team) by Impsport which is fine. A gilet keeps these small showers from getting your body wet and doesn’t interfere with your cycling and movement. It also can act as a layer of insulation for windy descents. True, your arms are exposed, but, you maintain  a flexibility for cycling and training, which you often want. Without a gilet, you are thinking do I want to stop and get sweaty or do I want to keep going and get wet. A gilet helps fill the gap for those awkward showers where you just want to keep going. Definitely a good product to have.

• Cycle Gilets at Wiggle

If the rain becomes heavier and more persistent I may put on the mid level jacket or race cape. Two layers of thin waterproofing are obviously much better.

Race Cape
I bought this Altura race cape (£34.99, Evans) because I was attracted by how small you could role it up. But, for its small size you pay in the fact that it is less effective in dealing with really heavy rain. It is really insufficient for long persistent heavy rain. But, if you are training / racing through a few showers, it helps maintain a few more degrees in the body. Again I often wear it in combination with a cycle gilet. I tend to take this race cape, when weather forecast is reasonably good / warm. It’s an insurance against unexpected heavy showers, but isn’t too bulky.

Writing this post, makes me realise how many waterproof tops I have tried. Some of the most expensive Goretex ones have often proved a disappointing buy as I rarely actually wear it when training. But, if I was a slow tourer / commuter I may use them more often and a race cape less useful.

The thing is when it really pours down with rain and you still have 30 miles to go, you really need something pretty solid! I think every cyclist learns this the hard way at some time!

A good waterproof jacket is essential for any cyclist.

• A useful tip for carrying a lightweight jacket. Take an old plastic water bottle and cut it in half. The lightweight waterproof jacket will fit in here, then you can carry it in a bottle cage. Ideal, if you only need one water bottle and have 2 slots for water brackets.

Altura Jacket

• Altura Night Vision -(£48.99 – at wiggle) Waterproof, breathable and made out of the durable Altek fabric. This will withstand much more rain as it has a couple of layers and better material. It is very bright and great for winter riding. In summer it can be too hot.
  

Briko Jacket

• Briko Extra waterproof (£44.99) Ultralight jacket made of Nylon Dropshell that is completely heat taped and unlined.

Top of the Range Cycling Jacket

• Endura Venturi eVent (£134.99) This is a 3 layer fabric – Lightweight, fully waterproof and exceptionally breathable. All zips are fully waterproof.
• Rear shoulder vents for extra breath ability

Related

• Waterproof jackets at Wiggle
• Rain wear at Evans
• Waterproof jackets at Amazon

Do you go cycling in the rain?

1. Assos F1 Mile Padded Cycling Shorts. These are the most comfortable pair of cycling shorts I’ve tested. If you find sitting on a saddle for several hours painful, I definitely recommend these padded cycling shorts which will help make the ride less painful on the old rear-end. Review: Assos F1 Mile Padded shorts
2. Nanoflex Leg Warmers. I often do early season races in leg warmers. I find the dangers of getting cold legs after a race are too great to risk riding when it is very cold. I know one UK cyclist who can be seen wearing leg warmers in a race at 20 degrees. I wouldn’t go that far, but lycra legwarmers are pretty useful. The Castelli Nanoflex legwarmers have the advantage of being highly water repellent. In rainy days, there are excellent at keeping your legs dry, but they are definitely fully breathable. See: Review Nanoflex leg warmers
3. Thermal Base layer. It is vital to get a good thermal base layer which quickly wicks away sweat. There is nothing worse than using a cheap t shirt which keeps your sweat close to your skin. I often wear 2 underlayers to get rid of most sweat. Just avoid using a heavy goretex jacket as these tend to make you sweat alot.
4. Cycling Overshoes. Because I have reynaulds diesease, my hands and feet quickly get cold. In particular, I find that it is difficult to keep my feet warm enough. Because of this I am usually wearing overshoes from October through to April. I tend to perfer neoprene. Some people find neoprene makes the feet sweat alot. But, I don’t get that problem. (also keep shoes clean as well)
5. Gillet. A gillet is a great invention and a necessity for any cyclist doing long hills. On the uphill the gillet unzips and naturally folds behind the back, giving maximum breathability. On the descent you can zip it up to give great wind protection. Invaluable for anyone likely to suffer from chest problems. Also essential if you go an any cycling holiday to the Pyrenees or Alps
6. Winter Training Top. My winter training top is not waterproof but fully breathable with a full length zip. It’s not too heavy, or thick. I prefer wearing several layers, rather than one heavy layer.
7. Wool Thermal Gloves I’m not keen on the large ski gloves because I find it is easy for the hands to get sweaty. Then they can become quite cold later in the ride. I bought some top of the range wool gloves for about £15. They are not too thick but give excellent insulation and breath ability. The only downside is that they are not waterproof.
8. Retro Cycling Jersey. If like to do a little posing on on the bike, why not check out these retro cycling jerseys. A bit expensive, but they have style.
9. Lightweight waterproof jacket. I’m not keen on the heavier goretex varieties of jackets. I prefer a lightweight waterproof, which can be folded into a back pocket or cut down waterbottle. They protects against moderate showers, giving you just enough time to race home. best waterproof jackets
10. Arm Warmers. In the UK you can be wearing armwarmers through most of the season. I had difficulty finding armwarmers which were thin enough and didn’t slip down the arms. Lycra makes the best type of armwarmers because they are so quick to dry. I also have some de Feet armwarmers which use a wool based material. Assos Armprotectors are excellent

See also:

Cycle Clothing at Evans

Am happy with new cycling shoes – Mavic Tourmalet after a long battle to find a pair which fit well.

When it comes to buying shoes I would prefer buying from a local shop than online. I have always had difficulty buying cycling shoes. Partly, because manufacturers have widely different conceptions of what size 12 or size 48 means means.

Different brands seem to use different shoe sizes. I’ve had cycling shoes from size 46 to size 48.

A problem with buying at local shops is that my size 12, is often not stocked. So with reluctance, I looked online. I was fortunate to find one model which did half sizes, so I ended up getting a Mavic Tourmalet 46.5. Evans cycles were quite good because initially  I thought the 46.5  were too big so I sent it back to get a 46, but, that was too small so I ended up back with a 46.5 – which is just right even in winter and with hotpads stuffed down them.

I don’t know why it’s so difficult to choose the right pair of cycling shoes. But, one foot is slightly bigger than the other and my feet are comparatively wider than normal.

By the way, if anyone takes size 48, I have a pair of Northwave size 48, which I rode twice before I realised they were too big. I guess I should try sell on ebay..

Tips on Buying Cycling Shoes

• Do try them on.
• Don’t put too much weight on manufacturers shoe sizes – they definitely do vary
• Be aware your feet can expand when they get hot. Also bear in mind, you might be wearing two or three pairs in winter.
• A good fit is more important than any other feature.

The Mavic Tourmalet are a good shoe. They look good and weigh little – just 285 grams for size 8.5. They are well ventilated and have good heels to avoid wear and tear.

Related

• Mavic Road shoes at Evans

Neoprene overshoes offer:

• Water resistance (but, not completely waterproof)
• Reduce Heat loss.
• Can get quite sweaty as they tend to keep moisture in. (it is a good idea to use talcum powder with them.)
• Sometimes if your feet get very wet, they can become cold later on in the ride.

Therefore, I prefer to save neoprene shoes for when it is wet.

Lightweight Knit Overshoes

I’ve had quite a few pairs of knitted woolen overshoes. These look good and have the advantage of not sweating. However, the problem is that they easily tear and after a winter’s training, they look pretty ragged and so become unusable.

Suggested Overshoes

• Adidas Chrono Booties – aerodynamic and light wind resistant. 80% polyester £12.95
• Altura Neostream Overshoe – neoprene version of the Altura Stream overshoe. £19.99
• Assos Neoprene Overshoes – Top of the range anatomically cut overshoe -£35.99
• Endura Road Overshoe – I have used this for one winter and looks hardly used at all. It is pretty tough and resilient and does job.

• Overshoes at Chain Reaction Cycles
• Overshoes at Evans Cycles