This Continental 4000- split and punctured on a ride- I had to put new inner tube and ride home like this! If I had been clever, I would have founded strong leaf to improvise some protection between tyre and inner tube. But, I only thought of that after I luckily got home.

If I listed the biggest irritations of cycling, I would say that getting a puncture would be pretty high up.  Firstly the most common reasons for getting a puncture.

• Tyre not put on properly (inner tube caught between rim and tyre)
• Thin, cheap tyres much more likely to puncture.
• Worn tyres with cracks in.
• Rear wheel more likely to puncture
• More likely to puncture in wet.

These are some tips for avoiding punctures.

1. Puncture Resistant tyres.

Unfortunately, at the moment it is hard to get completely puncture resistant tyres for road bikes. For some bikes you can get solid tyres, which offer a puncture resistant ride, but I wouldn’t want to ride them. When racing I always choose a tyre with good layers of puncture resistance, at least 1 or 2 kevlar belts. For training and even racing, I would rather choose a slightly heavier tyre and have an improved chance of avoiding a puncture. Only on very short hill climbs, will I risk the lightest tubulars.

On my winter training bike, I have an Armadillo Specialized All Condition on the rear, and a Continental Dura Skin on the front. The Armadillo is the most puncture resistant. I put it on the rear because the rear tyre is the most likely to get a puncture. Schwalbe Marathon Plus offer one of biggest resistance to punctures. (puncture resistant tyres)

2. Avoid the grit at the side of the road.

Often on busy roads grit and debris accumulates on the side of the road;  riding amongst all this grit definitely increases the chance of getting a puncture. Don’t feel pushed into the edge, keep an eye on road surface and avoid potential problems. (BTW, don’t ride in gutter, but give yourself a good distance from edge. This gives you room for manoeuvre when avoiding potholes and thorns.)

Also, there have been times, when I’ve got off and walked by  a newly cut thorn hedge which the farmer has kindly left on the road.

3. Put on the tyre properly

The biggest cause of ‘repeat punctures’ is putting on a tyre with tyre leavers. This invariably causes a pinching of the inner tube between rim and tyre. To avoid this, it is important to always put a tyre back on with your hands.

If you have to use tyre leaves, you must check after it has been fitted. When the tyre is part blown up, you can check around the rims to make sure there is no inner tube squeezed between the rim. I go around the rim and push the tyre inwards to see any sign of an inner tube. See: How to mend puncture

4. Avoid riding in the rain.

People often find that riding in the rain causes an increased chance of puncture. I think this may be due to the fact that the water reduces friction and makes it easier for grit to penetrate the tyre. I guess no body would choose to ride in the rain unless they can avoid it. But, be prepared for higher risk of puncture.

5. Correct Tyre Pressure

Not sure how much this helps but worth doing for other reasons anyway. See: Correct Tyre pressure.

6. Use New Inner Tubes

I never use a puncture repair kit. I just buy inner tubes in bulk. At least a failed puncture repair is one less thing to worry about.

7. Self Healing Inner Tubes

For MTB’s I recommend these Green slime self healing inner tubes. They are great for automatically fixing any flat caused by thorns e.t.c I don’t use them on my road bike because they are slower.

8. Check Tyres for Wear / Scratches and embedded Grit.

I frequently check tyres for wear. I prefer to replace at early signs of wear. I have seen some riders wear tyres down so much, you can actually see the outer layer is completely gone!

Another good thing to do is to check for pieces of glass that have got embedded in the tyre. I will use a sharp point (nail or similar shape) and flick the grit out. (watch out for your eyes). This prevent the grit getting pushed further into the tyre and causing a puncture at a later date. I usually tolerate one or two scratches in a tyre, but, when they start to look deep or prevalent, I chuck tyre out. Better to replace too early and avoid that puncture!

9. Make Sure there is rim tape on the wheel.

I’ve had two punctures because the rim tape slipped off the centre of the wheel; this meant inner tube was in direct contact with metal rim, and this caused a puncture.

10. Tubulars over Inner Tubes and Tyres.

There is anecdotal evidence tubulars are less likely to cause punctures. There is certainly no chance of the ‘pinch puncture’. But, it really depends on the quality of the tubular. For racing I use tubulars, not so much for better puncture resistance, but they are lighter. However, when you do puncture it is more expensive. So road tyres and inner tubes are better for training.

11. Never Blog About How you never Get Punctures

see: the time (I got 5 punctures in a week)

See also:

• Tips for Mending a puncture
• Best puncture proof tyres

Originally posted July 2010, substantially updated Jan 2012.

Alex Dowsett in 25 mile Time Trial

These are a few simple ways to increase the aerodynamics of your riding position. They are primarily intended for time trials, although, some may also be appropriate for road racing as well. Improving aerodynamics can make huge improvements to your times, as I found out after visiting wind tunnel.

• Oversocks - Oversocks are a lycra fitting for your shoes. These help improve airflow by creating a smoother covering of the shoe. Try the Smart oversock from drag2zero, expensive at £60 but one of the best. Also Pro oversock is pretty good.

• Single Chainring – For many time trial courses, it is not necessary to have a double chainring at the front. If you are averaging 25mph, you will not need the inner ring, unless the course is very steep in places. A single ring enables you to remove the front mech changer as well. However, if you do this be wary you don’t enable your chain to slip off.

• Dropping your handlebars just a few cm. Dropping your handlebars a few cm, will make the biggest difference to improving aerodynamics because your frontal position incurs the biggest aerodynamic drag. However, be aware that dropping your position will eventually compromise your power output, through making breathing more difficult. This requires experimentation. The best is to use a power meter and controlled testing to see different speeds from different position.

• Taping up holes. The secret to aerodynamics is taping up any holes and making a smooth airflow stream. For example, if you have a disc wheel you can place some tape over the gap for blowing up the tyre.

• Aerodynamic Helmet. Aerodynamic safety helmet can make a big difference through making the airflow easier to pass over the cyclist. Aero Cycle Helmets
• Helmet Position. A simple tip is to make sure you position your aero helmet so tail is closer to your back. If it is sticking up in air, you will catch more aerodynamic drag. Push the helmet up your forehead so the tail gets closer to your back. This is a really easy way to improve aerodynamics and has a big impact.
• Helmet Visor. Fitting a visor on a helmet improves aerodynamics. It is also good to keep sun and flies out of your eyes. You might need to get two – one for sunny days one for overcast days.

• Shaving Your Legs. – There’s got to be some reason for doing it! – Best ways to shave legs
• Aero Bottle. For £15, you can get a Bontrager or Specialised Aero Bottle. People have claimed it saves 4 watts in a 10 mile time trial. Definitely reduces frontal drag and so makes sense. Probably the cheapest way to improve aerodynamics. Specialised Aero bottle at Evans. Best aero bottles
• Aero Gloves. Your hands are one of the first things that ‘hits the wind’ so to speak. Aero gloves can smooth this airflow at the front of your riding position. Try the Pearl Izumi P.R.O. Aero Glove. It removes the velcro strap and reduces another barrier to the wind. I like this Mavic aero gloves because they are also quite stylish.
• Disc Wheel. This will improve aerodynamic drag, but is expensive. You can easily be spending £700 for a Fast Forward disc wheel. For a top of the range Zipp disc it can be up to £1,500. However, for most time trials don’t worry about weight, it is the aero disc that will really help. Disc Wheel for time trials
• Hand position. Keep hands close together on the bars. Minimise wind space in between

A nice aero position. In particular, this position bring the arms close together, almost in parallel with the knees.

• Lifting up Aero bars. Often lifting up the aero bars, into a praying mantis position makes you more aerodynamics. When I went into the wind tunnel, I found significant gains from this praying mantis position. It is not UCI legal. For British Time trial championship, I have to lower tri bars to be horizontal. But for  CTT events, I do lift up aerobars. However, it is not necessarily more aerodynamic it can depend on your body type. But, it is worth experimenting.
• Riding Style. For time trials, try keep the body stable. Where possible stay in the saddle, and avoid wiggling your upper body around. In training work on keeping this steady position. You will get more power from it and it will be more aerodynamic

 My Time Trial Position

This is my position before wind tunnel testing. My head is lower and hand higher.

Related

• Training for a 10 mile time trial
• Time trial Position

For this reason alone, I like a pump that is attached to bike frame. This means that if you leave it on, it is much harder to forget it. If you have several bikes, you will need to remember to take it with right bike – either that or buy two pumps – one for pocket, and one fitted to road bike used the most.

CO2 Cylinders

One option for those looking to save weight and space is to take CO2 cylinders. I have one of these but have never actually used it. I have to admit been worried I would use the gas to inflate the tyre, but then have to deflate and start again, but, then having no gas left to inflate. Of course, if fix a tyre correctly the first time, this shouldn’t happen. It would be good for race, when you’re trying to minimise weight. I guess you could always take spare cylinders but, it becomes an expensive way to pump up tyres. Also some mini pumps are so small and light, that the difference in weight is not that much.

Innovation Microflate Nano cylinder pump is only £12. Spare cartridges are 2 for £5. It only weighs 26 grams, with cartridge at 16g. It’s head also works for discwheels.

CO2 Cylinders at Wiggle

Mini Pumps

I find mini pumps can be somewhat unreliable and prone to breaking down. If you keep it attached to the bike in winter, check periodically it is working. Also keep the head away from dirt. A good model should have a cap to keep dirt from air hole.

This Lifeline Carbon mini pump is good value. Only £20 and weighing around 85grams. It can inflate upto 120psi (though that is hard work with a mini pump.

Diago Streamlined Pump

The Diago Streamlined pump looks good and smooth. Works very efficiently. I’ve had problems with mini pumps breaking down after several months use. This seems sturdier than other models. When pumping up tyres, there is a very smooth connection within pump action. I’ve only used for a couple of months, but it retains exactly same strength and rigidity, that not all mini-pumps have. Slightly long compared to other mini pumps, which is a bit of an issue when in back pocket or squeezing into saddle bag But, overall am quite happy.

Related

• Mini Pumps at Wiggle
• Mini Pumps at Evans Cycles

Related

• Tyre pressure for bikes
• Tips for avoiding punctures

I wanted some ultra-lightweight aero bars for my road bike. The idea was to use for just two or three hill climbs which have a low average gradient.

The Profile Sonic CSX aero bars are one of the lightest I could find. The small version weigh only 286g (very rare that equipment actually weighs less than advertised weight of medium version).

The profile is also very low, the armrests are not stuck above the handlebar like on some models. They are also very adjustable, you can put them anywhere on handlebars. This enables me to have them quite close together. Bringing the arms close together is one of the main aerodynamic advantages of aerobars.

Although they were intended just for one or two races, I haven’t got round to taking them off. When I am on a ride, I often like to use this position, especially when you are fighting a tough headwind.

If I went on a chain-gang or ride with others, I would take them off. But, on your own they are really quite useful to have. If nothing else it gives your hands a rest as you can put the weight on your forearms. I know its not fashionable to have aerobars on a road bike, and I’m sure UCI commissioners in Zurich and shaking their head in dismay, but I happen to like using them. Probably the cheapest way to make your bike 10% faster.

The Profile Sonic  look sleek and are easy to fit. They also have the ability to have internal cabling. I won’t do this and because of the holes, they tend to whistle in the wind. I’ve used some Sellotape to tape up the hole for cable and make them more aerodynamic.

Overall, I’m very pleased with these aerobars. At £228, they are not cheap. But, for what you get, they are also good value.

• More clip on aero bars
• Profile Sonic Aero Bars at Wiggle

Incorrect Fitting of Helmet

from: flickr

In particular the most common problem is to wear the helmet too far back on the head. If you were to land on your forehead the first thing to hit the ground would be your head rather than your helmet. It is important to fit a helmet so that if you did land on your forehead, the first thing to hit the ground is the helmet.

The other mistake is to wear the helmet too loose. It is suggested that badly fitting helmets can actually cause injury when you fall because they can twist your neck. Take time to tighten up the different straps so that it is a snug fit (but not too snug to restrict your breathing.

Tips for Correct fitting of Bike Helmet

photo by Zimpenfish

• Measure circumference of head about 3 cm above eyebrows. Match your headsize to helmet. It doesn’t have to be exact fit as there will be some leeway with straps and padding.
• Place your head squarely on your head so front protrudes above forehead. Then adjust inner padding and inner straps so the helmet is snug. Not loose, but not too tight. It should not be possible to have more than one finger’s width between strap and chin.
• The front strap should be as vertical as possible.
• The buckle should be under the chin on the back of the lower jaw against the throat. It should not be on the jaw.
  If you try to move the helmet, it should only give a slight movement on the head. If it is easy to roll the helmet around the head, it is not tight enough.
• The helmet should sit level on the cyclist’s head with only a couple of finger-widths between eyebrow and the helmet brim.

Other tips for using a helmet.

• If you crash, or have a heavy impact on helmet – get a new one.
• Just because you are wearing a helmet doesn’t make you ‘safe’ on the roads. At the best it will minimise impact of head injuries. The most important safety feature is to ride with awareness and care.

Related

• Cheap cycle helmets - I can recommend the Specalized Align helmet. It is only £30, but has a very nice and simple system for fitting all head sizes. It feels very snug and is quite lightweight.
• Cycle Helmets at Evans
• Giro helmets

I also find that standard cycle computers are often less than accurate in measuring distance. GPS gives a much higher level of accuracy. If you are doing a 10 mile time trial, this kind of accuracy can be very beneficial.

GPS  Edge 500

This is a relatively small and lightweight GPS cycle computer, designed specifically for cyclists. It comes with all the most useful functions – speed, distance, time, Average speed, cadence, power meter compatible, elevation and heart rate monitor. It is pretty comprehensive without being prohibitively expensive. It is easy to use and you can customise the screen to focus on what interests you in the ride – e.g. focusing on heart rate information. Battery life of 18 hours, is fine, as you can easily get into habit of recharging every day. It offers better value than more expensive Polar GPS computers and is really quite easy to use.

Garmin Edge 500 Wiggle.

Note, if you don’t want Heart rate monitor and cadence sensor, the Garmin Edge 500 can be bought for £180 e.g. at Evans cycles.

Garmin Edge 705.

The Garmin Edge 705 offers similar features to the 500, but has better direction capabilities and can give turn by turn directions. However, you will want to download an open source map guide such as Open Street Maps, but, this is quite easy to do. If you love statistics, the Garmin Edge 705 has much to offer and data can easily be downloaded. Battery life is only 8 hours, but, should be sufficient for all but longest rides. Because it has so many functions it can take a while to get used to it.

• Garmin Edge 705 at Wiggle

• GPS Cycle Computers Wiggle
• GPS computers at Evans Cycles
• Garmin
• Best Wireless cycle computers
• Best cycle computers

A simple test  is to use your finger and try to lift the chain off the chainring. If the chain can be pushed quite a bit away from the chainring, this is a sign that it needs changing. If the chain is badly worn, you will probably need to change the cassette block at the same time. (and possibly front chain ring)

You can also buy a chain measuring tool which will tell you how worn a chain is. Such as this P Chain measuring tool for £19.99.

Chain on My Commuting Bike.

With my commuting bike, I usually wait until the chain starts to slip and then change the chain, cassette block and front chainring altogether. It means that it can be 1 or 2 years between changing the chain. Towards the end of the chain cycle, it is probably becoming inefficient. But, the hassle of changing it is greater than the decrease in inefficiency. However, if it starts slipping, it is definitely a sign it needs to be changed.

Recently, I kept putting off changing the chain on my commuting bike and really notice the difference now I did it at the weekend. I wish I had done it earlier because it makes a much more pleasant ride.

Time Trial Bike / Road Bike

On my road bike and time trial bike I have a Dura Ace groupset, and so want to try and

1. Extend the life of the cassette blocks
2. Not lose any inefficiency in the drive mechanism.

Therefore, I will try and change the chain quite frequently, before it needs replacing. This is because a worn chain can lose efficiency in the drive mechanism; therefore, for optimal performance it is worth changing frequently – perhaps every 1,000 miles. This means you can use a couple of chains per cassette block.

Note I prefer to replace with a cheap chain frequently than replace with Dura Ace infrequently. Also when replacing the block I tend to go for Shimano Ultegra. The price is about 50% of Dura Ace and only a slight difference in performance.

Tip: Keep a record of when you change a chain and note the mileage. This will give you a guide to when you need to change the chain.

• Chains for road bikes at Wiggle
• Gear Mechanisms
• Correct chain length for bike

I got my first mudguards when I joined a cycling club (Otley CC). I soon learnt that on winter training rides, mudguards were an absolute essential for club riding. 1 or 2 times riding at the back of the pack and you soon get the idea. The first mudguards I got were the traditional mudguard type like,  Chromoplastic mudguard I only remember that they took ages (much longer than they should) to put on. They were also a little fiddly and parts broke at a later stage.

Mudguards for a Racing Bike

My current road bikes don’t even have mudguard eyes. Therefore,  I need to use the flexible variety which are easy to attach. See: Clip on Race Blades. They don’t need any screws and are quite an ingenious design. They are indispensable for road bikes without the mudguard eyes. It also doesn’t matter if there is a very narrow distance between the top tube and the rear wheel.

However, they are not without drawbacks – it is more difficult to get the mudguards in the exact position. They tend to slip a bit. I have had problems with the mudguards rubbing against the wheel. These problems are not insolvable and are probably more of a bad reflection on my mechanical skills than the product. However, if you want the absolute best protection, use the traditional style mudguards for better protection.

Recommended Mudguards

SKS lightweight Race Blade £27.99

• Easy to mount
• Lightweight
• Fits all road bikes (even without mudguard holes)
• I have used these for several seasons and they have consistently performed really well. Often with my road bikes I am taking mudguards on and off (e.g. travelling in car). These clip on mudguards make it quite easy. You don’t need any tools, you may need to make some minor adjustments e.g. moving ties up and down the rear stays until you get the right clearance, but they work really well. The new model (pictured above) also has some extra protection from clip on flap.
• Note: they don’t give as much protection as proper fitted mudguards, but they will keep the worst of the rain from your back
• See:  full review of SKS Race Blades

Crud Roadrace

Clip on mudguards for road bike. Only 180grams with exceptionally low clearance.

Crud Roadrace II

Extensive coverage of wheel, I reviewed them here:

• Mudguards at Evans Cycles

Related

• Winter Cycling Gear

1. Make Sure the Saddle height is correct.

See: Correct saddle height and bike frame size

2. Make Sure You Pedal with the balls of your feet.

Beginners often make the mistake of pedalling with the middle of your foot (by the arch) or even their heel. This is an inefficient method of pedalling.

3. Watch the Pros pedalling.

It is a good idea to watch experienced professional cyclists pedal. You will get a feel for the fluidity of movement and correct position.

4. Pedal Both Down and Up.

It is important not just to pedal on the downstroke. It is also important to pedal on the upstroke. Thus ideally we will be pedalling for the 360 degrees of a pedal stroke and not just on the downward part. To do this we will need toe clips or the more popular clipless pedals.

5. Seek Professional Help.

A couple of years ago I paid about £130 to get a professional bike fit at cycle fit. As well as working on best position, they also took a video of my pedalling action and suggested a few minor changes.

6. Try Pedalling at A Higher Cadence.

Many beginners get used to pedalling at a low cadence, sometimes as low as 50 rpm. Try periods of pedalling at 100 rpm. In the beginning, it might feel difficult to maintain this high cadence if you are not used to it. But, you can gradually extend the time spent pedalling at this frequency. By pedalling at a higher frequency, you will be forced to give more attention to your pedalling action. It will help encourage a smoother pedalling action.

7. Try Pedalling with one Leg.

An effective way to develop the ability to pedal for 360 degrees of the pedal action is to pedal with one leg at a time; this action instinctively teaches you to pedal on the upstroke.

8. Ride Fixed.

When riding a fixed you cannot freewheel, but, have to keep the legs spinning all the time. It helps create a smooth continuous pedalling action.

9. Practise on Rollers

By practising on rollers, you can help improve your pedalling action.

10. Check your leg is moving in a straight line.

Watch your pedalling action. Do  your legs go straight up and down like pistons, or do they go inwards or outwards. In one season I developed knee problems because the outer part of my leg was weak causing a distorted pedal action. I went to a sports pysio-therapist and he suggested certain exercise to strengthen under utilised muscles. This enabled a stronger and more straight pedal action and the knee pain cleared up.

11. Different length legs?

Some riders can benefit from wedges in shows to equalise discrepancies in leg length.  cleats for cycling

Optimal Cadence?

There is a great debate amongst cyclists about the optimal cadence rate. Some point to Lance Armstrong as evidence that a high cadence rate >100 is the most efficient. Other cyclists, prefer to pedal at a lower cadence 80-90. To a large extent it depends on the type of cycling you are doing. Time triallists will generally choose a lower cadence as they can maintain a constant pace and effort. Road racers will tend to ride at a higher cadence to make it easier to deal with changes in pace that can occur. Track sprinters will need the ability to spin very quickly up to 150 rpm or higher.

Generally speaking, pedalling at a low cadence makes greater use of your leg muscles. Pedalling at a higher cadence makes greater use of you heart capacity.

Related;

• Pedals at Wiggle
• Pedals at Amazon.co.uk

• Speedplay pedals review - My preferred choice for pedals
• pedalling action

However, they were a bit difficult to fit and I have a blister on my thumb to prove it.

These are some ideas, which in theory, should help to make it easier to fit a new tyre.

• Squeeze the opposite side of the tyre. If you squeeze the tyre down towards the rim you make it wider, and it becomes easier to squeeze the tyre on. It is helpful  if you go all around the tyre pushing the tyre closer to the side you wish to fit.
• Using Palms. After trying for ages with using my thumbs I got it on first time by using my palms to push it on. 
• Tyre Levers. If you use tyre levers to put on a tyre, you risk creating a puncture by nipping the inner tube between the wheel rim and the tyre. When you blow up the tyre, it can suddenly explode (I can testify it is very loud). If you do have to resort to this method always go round the whole wheel checking to see you can’t see any inner tube between the tyre and wheel rim. This practise of checking is worth doing for any method of putting on a tyre. You shouldn’t need to use tyre levers if you can use the squeeze techique.
• Wear gloves. You can always try wearing gloves to avoid blisters on your thumbs.

Related

• Tips for mending a puncture
• Best Puncture proof tyres