A while back, I wrote about changing your chain. The best thing is to change your chain frequently, e.g every 1,000 miles. Though it is a little expensive and time consuming, it is worth it because you can lose power through a worn chain. Also, if you change your chain regularly, you will get greater use out of your rear cassette block.
However, as is often the case, I don’t follow my own advice. I’ve ridden 3,000 miles on my road bike since the last chain change. Yesterday, I changed the chain and when standing on the pedals the chain started to slip.
Since I’d started the ride, I didn’t want to turn round and put a new cassette on. But, I found if I rode in the big ring, the chain didn’t slip. However, I do need to change the rear cassette now.
Generally, if you leave your chain for a long time, you will need to change both cassette and chain at the same time. For a cheap groupset, this is probably best option as cassettes are not too expensive and it’s easiest to do it all together. If you use a top end groupset like Shimano Ultegra, Dura Ace then cassettes become quite expensive.
How to Know if A Cassette is Worn
The above cassette is quite worn, though I’ve seen a lot worse. Generally, the teeth become more pointed on a worn cassette. The best test is often to see whether the chain slips under pressure.
Note: If you really don’t want to spend money on a new cassette, you can sometimes wear in a new chain. i.e. it may slip for first 100 – 200 miles, but, then the chain stretches a little and it stops slipping. It depends on what kind of cycling your doing, if it its up steep hills, the last thing you want is a slipping chain.
Changing A Cassette
To undo a cassette, you need a chain whip tool which stops the cassette free wheeling. Turn the cassette tool anticlockwise to unscrew.
I’m not keen on bike maintenance as I have no natural ability for it. However, changing a chain and cassette is not too difficult. For a cassette you need two simple tools
- A chain whip to stop freewheel spinning
- A cassette tightening nut.
Neither are too expensive, and if you do a lot of cycling it is worth investing in.
- Cassettes and Freewheels at Wiggle
To change mine,I remove wheel, then having put the cassette tool on the nut, I put it in the vice and turn the wheel untill it loosens.
The cassette tool I have is a small affair, not like the one in the picture.
About to do my cassette and chain today too.
Will you be doing any tips for chain length as there are so many articles/methodology varies.
Keep up the good work!
Tejvan- you can tell this chap to run the chain around the largest front cog and the largest rear ignoring the rear mech and then add two links (Each link being a pair) sometimes you only have to add one link but shimano always say 2
Interesting article, thanks!