Entries Tagged 'equipment' ↓
July 15th, 2010 — bikes, equipment
If I listed the biggest irritations of cycling, I would say that getting a puncture would be pretty high up. These are some tips for avoiding punctures.
1. Puncture Resistant tyres.
Unfortunately, at the moment it is hard to get completely puncture resistant tyres for road bikes. For some bikes you can get solid tyres, which offer a puncture resistant ride, but they are considerably slower. When racing I always choose a tyre with good layers of puncture resistance, at least 1 kevlar belt. I would rather choose a slightly heavier tyre than sacrifice the improved chance of avoiding a puncture. (puncture resistant tyres)
2. Avoid the grit at the side of the road.
Often on busy roads grit and debris accumulates on the side of the road; riding amongst all this grit increases the chance of getting a puncture. Don’t feel pushed into the edge, you have a right to cycle away from the extreme edge of the road.
3. Put on the tyre properly
The biggest cause of ‘repeat punctures’ is putting on a tyre with tyre leavers. This invariably causes a pinching of the inner tube between rim and tyre. To avoid this, it is important to always put a tyre back on with your hands. Also, when the tyre is part blown up, you can check around the rims to make sure there is no inner tube squeezed between the rim. Continue reading →
July 2nd, 2010 — equipment
A GPS can give a cyclist much more information about his ride and also suggest routes. For those long distance touring it can be much easier than carrying innumerable maps around. If you’ve ever tried reading a map, whilst cycling at same time, you will know benefit of a GPS. As well as providing directions, GPS models can give an accurate level of total climbing distance. This can be as intriguing as knowing how many miles you have covered.
I also find that standard cycle computers are often less than accurate in measuring distance. GPS gives a much higher level of accuracy. If you are doing a 10 mile time trial, this kind of accuracy can be very beneficial.
GPS Edge 500
This is a relatively small and lightweight GPS cycle computer, designed specifically for cyclists. It comes with all the most useful functions – speed, distance, time, Average speed, cadence, power meter compatible, elevation and heart rate monitor. It is pretty comprehensive without being prohibitively expensive. It is easy to use and you can customise the screen to focus on what interests you in the ride – e.g. focusing on heart rate information. Battery life of 18 hours, is fine, as you can easily get into habit of recharging every day. It offers better value than more expensive Polar GPS computers and is really quite easy to use.
Garmin Edge 500 Wiggle.
Note, if you don’t want Heart rate monitor and cadence sensor, the Garmin Edge 500 can be bought for £180 e.g. at Evans cycles.
Garmin Edge 705.
The Garmin Edge 705 offers similar features to the 500, but has better direction capabilities and can give turn by turn directions. However, you will want to download an open source map guide such as Open Street Maps, but, this is quite easy to do. If you love statistics, the Garmin Edge 705 has much to offer and data can easily be downloaded. Battery life is only 8 hours, but, should be sufficient for all but longest rides. Because it has so many functions it can take a while to get used to it.
June 4th, 2010 — equipment
I have several bikes and cycle about 10,000 miles a year. Knowing when to change the chain is sometimes a difficult question.
A simple test is to use your finger and try to lift the chain off the chainring. If the chain can be pushed quite a bit away from the chainring, this is a sign that it needs changing. If the chain is badly worn, you will probably need to change the cassette block at the same time. (and possibly front chain ring)
You can also buy a chain measuring tool which will tell you how worn a chain is. Such as this P Chain measuring tool for £19.99.
Chain on My Commuting Bike.
With my commuting bike, I usually wait until the chain starts to slip and then change the chain, cassette block and front chainring altogether. It means that it can be 1 or 2 years between changing the chain. Towards the end of the chain cycle, it is probably becoming inefficient. But, the hassle of changing it is greater than the decrease in inefficiency. However, if it starts slipping, it is definitely a sign it needs to be changed.
Recently, I kept putting off changing the chain on my commuting bike and really notice the difference now I did it at the weekend. I wish I had done it earlier because it makes a much more pleasant ride.
Time Trial Bike / Road Bike
On my road bike and time trial bike I have a Dura Ace groupset, and so want to try and
- Extend the life of the cassette blocks
- Not lose any inefficiency in the drive mechanism.
Continue reading →
May 30th, 2010 — equipment
A mini pump is an essential thing to carry on any ride. I have a sign by my front door – ‘Don’t forget pump’. So often I have started a cycle ride only to realise I forgot pump and rather than risk being stranded in the middle of Oxfordshire have returned to pick up a pump.
For this reason alone, I like a pump that is attached to bike frame. This means that if you leave it on, it is much harder to forget it. If you have several bikes, you will need to remember to take it with right bike – either that or buy two pumps – one for pocket, and one fitted to road bike used the most.
CO2 Cylinders
One option for those looking to save weight and space is to take CO2 cylinders. I have one of these but have never actually used it. I have to admit been worried I would use the gas to inflate the tyre, but then have to deflate and start again, but, then having no gas left to inflate. Of course, if fix a tyre correctly the first time, this shouldn’t happen. It would be good for race, when you’re trying to minimise weight. I guess you could always take spare cylinders but, it becomes an expensive way to pump up tyres. Also some mini pumps are so small and light, that the difference in weight is not that much.
Innovation Microflate Nano cylinder pump is only £12. Spare cartridges are 2 for £5. It only weighs 26 grams, with cartridge at 16g. It’s head also works for discwheels.
CO2 Cylinders at Wiggle
Mini Pumps
I find mini pumps can be somewhat unreliable and prone to breaking down. If you keep it attached to the bike in winter, check periodically it is working. Also keep the head away from dirt. A good model should have a cap to keep dirt from air hole.
This Lifeline Carbon mini pump is good value. Only £20 and weighing around 85grams. It can inflate upto 120psi (though that is hard work with a mini pump.
Related
November 29th, 2009 — bikes, equipment
I got my first mudguards when I joined a cycling club (Otley CC). I soon learnt that on winter training rides, mudguards were an absolute essential for club riding. 1 or 2 times riding at the back of the pack and you soon get the idea. The first mudguards I got were the traditional mudguard type like, Chromoplastic mudguard I only remember that they took ages (much longer than they should) to put on. They were also a little fiddly and parts broke at a later stage.
Continue reading →
June 10th, 2008 — clothes, equipment
The great debate about cycling helmets is not likely to disappear. But, when cycling around Oxford, I am often surprised to see alot of people who wear a helmet, fail to wear it properly. If you do make the effort to wear a helmet you might as well wear it properly.
Incorrect Fitting of Helmet
from: flickr
In particular the most common problem is to wear the helmet too far back on the head. If you were to land on your forehead the first thing to hit the ground would be your head rather than your helmet. The other mistake is to wear the helmet too loose. It is suggested that badly fitting helmets can actually cause injury when you fall because they can twist your neck.
Tips for Correct fitting of Bike Helmet
Continue reading →
May 29th, 2008 — equipment
Tacx Tao Bottle Cage
One of the best value bottle cages on the market is the Tacx Tao bottle cage. They are strong, lightweight and cheap. It weighs 37grams and can be bought for just £7.99. Some of the more expensive carbon fibre bottle cages may be 5-10grams lighter, but, they can be more than triple the price; they become an expensive way to save 10 grams. I use tacx tao bottle cages on my road bike and training bike. They look pretty good coming in a either black or silver. Another reason to choose Tacx tao, is that the ultra light weight carbon fibre varieties can be a bit flimsy and I had one break in the middle of a race. –
Continue reading →
May 18th, 2008 — equipment
Cycling is beautifully simple. Basically, we pedal and keep the bike heading in the right direction. Because pedalling is such an intrinsic part of cycling, it is important to optimise and perfect our pedalling action. Especially for beginners it is important to work on our pedal action.
These are some tips to Improving Our Pedalling Action
1. Make Sure the Saddle height is correct.
See: Correct saddle height and bike frame size
2. Make Sure You Pedal with the balls of your feet.
Beginners often make the mistake of pedalling with the middle of your foot (by the arch) or even their heel. This is an inefficient method of pedalling.
3. Watch the Pros peddalling.
It is a good idea to watch experienced professional cyclists pedal. You will get a feel for the fluidity of movement and correct position.
4. Pedal Both Down and Up.
It is important not just to pedal on the downstroke. It is also important to pedal on the upstroke. Thus ideally we will be pedalling for the 360 degrees of a pedal stroke and not just on the downward part. To do this we will need toe clips or the more popular clipless pedals.
5. Seek Professional Help.
A couple of years ago I paid about £130 to get a professional bike fit at cycle fit. As well as working on best position, they also took a video of my pedalling action and suggested a few minor changes.
Continue reading →
April 1st, 2008 — equipment
Recently I bought some of the new Continental Grand Prix 4000 Tyres. They are pretty good and claim to have lower rolling resistance, improved puncture resistance and also have a gauge to recommend when you should replace them.
However, they were a bit difficult to fit and I have a blister on my thumb to prove it.
These are some ideas, which in theory, should help to make it easier to fit a new tyre.
- Squeeze the opposite side of the tyre. If you squeeze the tyre down towards the rim you make it wider, and it becomes easier to squeeze the tyre on. It is helpful if you go all around the tyre pushing the tyre closer to the side you wish to fit.
- Using Palms. After trying for ages with using my thumbs I got it on first time by using my palms to push it on. Continue reading →
March 4th, 2008 — equipment
Once you have got used to clipless pedals you won’t want to go back. My first clipless pedals were the more common Look pedals. The reason I switched to speedplay pedals was:
- I had some problems with my knees and (rightly or wrongly) I blamed the Look pedals and the way movement was restricted. I liked the idea of having a large angle of float that comes with speedplay
- I wanted to save weight. Speedplay come in at 205 grams and 150grams for Titanium version. These are the lightest pedals on the market. However, the gap between speedplay and Look has been reduced with the introduction of new models like the Look Keo. At 280 grams + cleats they offer good value for money at only £39.99 link for Keo
- Easier to Maintain. I always found the look cleats a bit fiddly to get in the right position. Speedplay are much easier because of the greater degree of lateral movement.
Continue reading →
